The Vienna Blues (or why it sucks to be american)

I have now pass the half way mark of my time in Austria, and Vienna. It is still hard to believe that I am here, but I feel I have adapted well to the Austrian pace, the city, and generally making sure I don't get ran over by a pissed off driver (which is hard to avoid sometimes).

If you were to ask me if I wanted to be here, I would probably respond with a yope. Yes and no at the same time. The truth is I love this city, it has history, culture, character, life, and everything one could want in a city. However, the german language still is a problem. I feel like my study aboard experience is hampered by this fact. I honestly wish I would have started german as soon as I knew I even thought about going to vienna.

It is a bit strange to think that I am in the City I so wanted to be in for the longest time. I wanted to be in a germanic country since I could remember, I was always drawn towards Germany and Austria. I was drawn to Vienna when I became invested in music. Now that I am here, I wonder why I made a huge deal about it.

I feel like an experiment when I talk to Austrians. I feel they can smell the american on me (or probably see it on my clothing). I feel like its mandatory to apologize for the Iraq war, and my voting record is always a topic of discussion. They really like Obama here, I wish Americans liked Obama as much as most Austrians. I really do, however, enjoy the fact that all the Austrians I have gotten to talk to in coffee shops (which isn't a large portion mind you) have been some of the smartest people I have ever talked to. I really try to be as open as I can with these Austrians, and they seem to appreciate.

I feel like the biggest problem, or the biggest reason why I spend most of my days depressed, is that I left a lot of unfinished business left in Colorado. I feel like this Vienna trip is a pause in me dealing with fundamental difference with who and want I am and want to be. I guess I shouldn't worry, but I am.

The worst problem is that I am trying to cram too much human interaction in at one time. I always want to be talking/doing things. So I spend a majority of my time on Facebook. Maybe I should stop this.

I really feel like I want a reason to come back, but I don't have it just quite yet. Austria and I are just on formal visiting terms right now.

David, now with more Updating Action!

Its impressive, having a love-hate relationship with a city, it’s a lot like reliving that summer between college and high school. Half the time you want to get the summer over with, and the other half you spend wondering where summer went. The problem is the impending change. See, after being here for the period of time I have been, I have started to get use to things. For instance, an actual public transit system. Note RTD: Even though you guys are rated best in America for public transit, you guy suck hardcore. The general rule of thumb is that it will take you 20-25 minutes to go from point a in the city to point b. Which—considering this city is huge and mangled in traffic most of time—is impressive. It also means that you cannot wake up 5 minutes before class and still make it to 8 A. M music theory on time. Needless to say, I am glad I have one 9 A.M class.

I am also getting use to the fact that I really cannot communicate with many people randomly. Most of my meetings with Austrian have been predetermined, planned out, meetings. Granted I have met a few Austrians outside of that, but that’s only after we leave the bar and its 2 A.M. The only real Austrians I ever come in contact with are my R.A for my apartment, and my language partner. Both of which are rather cool individuals themselves, but a bit hard to read sometimes. I have learned that body language is not as universal as I once assumed, and this holds really true in a place like Austria. I cannot tell if the people are more reserved or more laid back than most Americans.

This brings me to my next point. I feel the biggest problem with me studying abroad at this juncture is the fact that I am trapped in an American bubble. I take classes with Americans, I speak a tremendous amount of English. I live with Americans. It really is like I am in America east. Which is good, I guess. The transition hasn’t been as hard as I would assume. But I feel like I am missing out. More on that later

The great thing about Vienna, is the shear amount of history in the city. I have seen works by most of the 1850-1930’s great painters, and I have heard the Vienna Phil live You really cannot argue with that.

However, its been a traumatic experience to be, frankly, trapped in a city like Vienna. As lame as it sounds, I really miss the fact that on a clear day I can see Longs peak from my professors office. I can see the Aspens change to gold. I can tell when we are moving seasons. Being in a city, fall only means colder temperatures and a shorter day. I honestly miss the beauty of moving into my favorite season. I miss the beauty of being outside.

It really is like a vacation that is now starting to last a bit too long. I don’t feel like I will ever fully integrate into this culture because of the Language. I honestly never have appreciated the ability to communicate with most people before. Yes, most Austrians do speak English, but they usually don’t want to have much to do with you after switching to English.

The one thing I do appreciate about the culture of Europe is the fact that they move much slower in their day to day lives. They seem less concerned with the—frankly bullshit—problems we Americans make for ourselves. Most of their young people are expected to not be a productive member of society until they are 26. In the U.S.A you are expected to have a masters by 22 and a career by 23. I really hope that I can take this relaxed approach to life when I go back home.

To congratulate my readers for making it this far in this, rather non-coherent, blog post. I will now attempt to describe the awkwardness that is flirting with an Austrian. Flirting is hard enough in America, but at least I understand the rules and can get a general gist of what is going on. In Austria, you might as well be in junior high again. . .yeah, its that bad. The biggest problem with flirting with Austrians is that they don’t really know what’s going on, more specifically the double meaning of most words and actions. Their seemingly witty banter (in English) is usually a result of:

a.) 1.)One too many beers

b.) 2.)Not really knowing the ramifications of saying/doing certain things. (or knowing, but not really acting on them)

This is true in both genders (not that I have hit on them, but from conversations with women that’s what I can tell). They are verbally very forward, but physically. . .whish washy. . .Honestly that is the best way I can describe it. Which will, in all likelihood, leave you with some rather awkward moments. It is like you are playing a game that looks a lot like baseball, has the same players, the same idea as baseball, and looks a lot like baseball, but as soon as you go to bat everyone starts screaming and suddenly the ump calls you out and your Austrian stops talking with you. (and moves tables if you are at a bar). Which also means that you really cannot win, or break even in Austro-flirting baseball, and you never get to touch home plate. (At this point in the reading, most people will start to understand why I used baseball as a description, considering I just did). Hell, you would even just like to make a base everyone and a while. And while most of my roommates have a decent earn run average, I am batting .000 (too much information yet?). I rather like American baseball, and I am looking forward to getting back to the rules I know?

Anyways, bis Später!

David

P.S For making it this far, you get a picture of a kitten. Awwww

Things I like and things that are "Mist"

Sorry, bad pun. Mist is a German word that is more emphatic than "crap" but not as crude as "shit."

Things I love that are uniquely Wiener/Österreicher/European:

• Mozartkugeln (Mozart Balls).
  


• Manner Schnitten
  


• The prevalence of music. See previous blog posts


• The Vienna Philharmonic. Yes, they get their own bullet in my list. Amazing sound, amazing organization. I saw them play all of Smetana's "Mein Vaterland" last week and it was great. The concert hall where they play (Musikverein) has a different protocol for standing room. There's one decent sized spot in the back of the house that has a railing in front. There's no other structures besides the wall in the back, and it's flat, not tiered like the Staatsoper. You get your 5 euro ticket beforehand, line up maybe 45 minutes before the start, and maybe 15-20 minutes before downbeat, a buzzer sounds, and it's a free-for-all. People run, literally, elbow each other and jump over railings to get to the front of the stehplatz section. I stood next to some 80-some year old women, and even I was uncomfortable standing for 2 hours. These people are troopers.


• The U-Bahn


• Kebap Sandwiches


• Käsekrainer - a brat-like sausage that is injected with cheese and eaten like a hot dog. Sounds kind of gross, tastes amazing.
  


• The Saturday flea market at the Naschmarkt, and the Naschmarkt in general
  


• Extremely inexpensive wine and beer that tastes quite decent

Things I miss about America/St. Paul/Denver/Lamont:

• The ability to read and understand the entirety of a food label.


• Practice rooms


• The oboe studio


• Toilets, 'nuff said


• Knowing where west is


• Playing in an orchestra


• Ultimate Frisbee


• Living near school

That's all I can think of at the moment; maybe I'll add more later. By the way, David, you're slacking. Write some posts.

Everyday I'm Hustlin'

It's been a while. Chamonix and Mont Blanc were beautiful. Chamonix is kind of like Breckenridge in size and touristy-ness. I can't say much about the mountains there other than that you should see it for yourself. We stayed in an awesome chalet called Ski B&B, owned by an awesome, funny Irish guy who cooked us an awesome breakfast every morning. Not a whole lot of English is spoken in France, especially in Chamonix. I was able to dig up in the depths of my brain what little French I remember from high school, and we were able to survive: explaining to the fare-checker on the train that our Chalet was supposed to give us free-transit cards but ran out of them, working out only having to pay the fare of 1.50 instead of a fine, and ordering in restaurants. On an unrelated note, I spotted a bottle of wine in a fine wine shop in Chamonix with a price tag of 1500 Euro. Pretty effing nuts.

I'll open my description of Milan with an anecdote about how David got Hustled with a capital H. First let me say that people in Milan carry themselves very differently than people in Vienna. People in Vienna are very reserved and don't say much in public. People in Milan are a bit more boisterous and assertive. We get off the bus from France and ride the subway to the Duomo - the cathedral that marks the city center in many European cities - where we're meeting Marisa Walsh, fellow DU student studying in Milan at whose apartment we stayed. At the top of the stairs coming out of the Duomo subway station were a couple of African men tying colored bracelets to tourists' wrists, and then asking for donations for "Africa." David and I each got confronted. I pulled out all the change in my pocket (amounting to about 4 euro), and the man says "no, 20 euro, please, no, 10 euro, come on, just 10 euro" and I say "No, this is all I can give you" and shove the coins in his hand and walk away. He follows me for a few steps until I turn around and glare at him. I turn and see that David now has three men in front of him. He had made the mistake of pulling out the wallet. Never pull out the wallet. He tried to give them 10, only to have them literally throw the bill back at him, demanding more. He gives them 20 and leaves. Needless to say he was not happy.

Besides the people, Milan was a bit similar to Vienna. There was the same multitude of kebap stands, and the architecture and city plan was similar. In Milan there's a concept that I want to bring back to the US. Anyone interested in some entrepreneurship, let me know. It's called "Apertivo." In many bars in Italy, if there is "Apertivo," one can buy a drink for 4-8 euro, and help his/herself to the small buffet of appetizers and finger foods that may include salads, cheeses, deli meats, bread with bree or some cheese on top, prosciutto or anchovies on top. These foods are quite tasty (at least at the bar we went to). One can make a meal out of slowly sipping away at a 5 euro beer, while filling oneself with the food. If you like, you can order multiple drinks (we had 2), or order an entree. On second thought, I don't know if this would work in the American bar atmosphere. I think it's worth a try though.

Munich may be my favorite city that I've visited so far. Marisa Rodriguez and I had an earlier train and were able to spend the day walking around Munich. We went to the Englischergarten, which is the worlds largest metropolitan park, and walked around the city center. A couple of things contribute to my high impression of Munich, but I can't fully describe why it's my favorite. Bavarian food is awesome. The public transit system was also really extensive and pretty cheap. It's generally a beautiful city. I'd like to go back at some point.

Oktoberfest was a lot of fun. We arrived on opening day at 8:40 AM, joined a crowed waiting outside of the Pschorr-Braurosl tent, witnessed several people jumping on the side of the building banging on the doors and windows and getting tackled and taken away by the police. The tent opened at 9, and we were unable to find a place to sit. All the tables had at least a few people at them, and they were saving tables for friends or were generally unwilling to let us sit with them. Maybe if we were dressed in the Bavarian garb of Lederhosen or Dirndl (which most everyone there had) we might have had better luck. We split up with Emily and Marisa, who later managed to sit with some people inside the tent.

David and I managed to sit with some Kiwis in the outdoor seating area. We heard the parade go by and through the tent, and at noon the mayor tapped the first keg and fireworks went off in the sky. Waiters and waitresses barged out of the building with anywhere from 6-12 liters of beer in their hands. Those things are not light, and common sense says to stay the eff out of their way. They hand you beers automatically when you're empty and collect money. Tipping generously is recommended, as it helps bring your waiter back more frequently. We also ate some Weisswurst, and a chicken half. By the way, Oktoberfest is sold as "family friendly" as there are your usual assortment of fair games and rides. So after a couple Maß (liter), we met up with the girls and went to a cafe/pool hall where Hitler and Lenin used to play pool.

Classes have started and are going well. I started having lessons last week, and we've decided to have lessons nearly all in German! I get lost a lot but it's good practice. She speaks English when I don't understand. To further illustrate the prominence of music in this city, nearly every evening that I walk home after an evening class, I walk by the Stadtoper (state opera house). Outside of the building is a huge screen where the opera inside is broadcasted live for everyone within a 2 block radius to hear. Many gather and sit in the open space in front of the screen. I haven't yet been to a concert or opera, but that will hopefully change very soon. Many people I know went to a concert last night of Mahler 2 performed by a college-aged youth orchestra, and they all were completely blown away by the performance. Music is kind of unavoidable. In the underground subway staion/shopping mall type thing of Karlsplatz, which has an exit in front of the opera, there is "the opera toilet." This toilet costs 50 cents or something like that (many public WCs in Europe charge a little bit of money, I haven't had to pay yet), and there is a loop of opera overtures playing quite loudly in the speakers inside and around.

More to come....

Travels

So Vienna is really cool. I feel like I'm finally getting used to it and becoming more familiar with where to go, what to see and do, where to buy stuff, etc. But just when I get used to it, I leave to go travel for a week.

So today I'm in Geneva, Switzerland for a night. Yesterday we were in Innsbruck, which is in western Austria. The Alps are amazing, and traveling by train allowed us to see so much. Speaking of traveling by train, it's quite an experience. It's my understanding that trains aren't really used for transport too much in many parts of the U.S. It was pretty cheap for us to get around, and our tickets enable us to spend as much time as we want in each of the stops within a month. We had a really successful conversation in German with an old Austrian lady on the train, but some parts were a bit fuzzy. She said something about her nephew being a puppeteer, a black man in a church, and a golden roof (which we later found was an actual place in Innsbruck).

In the hostel in Innsbruck, one of the people in our room was an older man from Iran. He works in the hotel industry and has seen many parts of the world and speaks about 4 or 5 languages. He was really cool to talk to. But another older man that was in our room masturbated in the middle of the night, right next to David.

Innsbruck was beautiful. It felt like an older, European version of Boulder. It's a whole lot less busy and stressful than Vienna, that's for sure, and the mountains are huge, jagged, and very close. We ended up in kind of a tourist-trap restaurant. They refused to serve tap water, even beside another drink. I ate pretzels that were already set on the table, and when I got the check I was asked how many I ate, and then charged for them. Other than that, it was really pleasant. I found a really cool place that would be great for a proposal.

It's on a bridge over the river in Innsbruck. Pretty sweet.

Right when we hit Zurich, the language turned into an even split between French and German. Here in Geneva, the language is all French. I did not know this. Apparently some bits of southern Switzerland also has Italian as an official language. That kind of explains the historical neutrality of the Swiss. Things are also stupid expensive. To my right is a burger stand where burgers sell for 6 Swiss Francs, which is about $6. I'm glad we're only staying one day.

Tomorrow we're off to Chamonix, where we're going to see Mont Blanc, the highest peak in western Europe. After that is Milan, where we're meeting up with some fellow DU students studying there. This weekend we're heading to Munich for Oktoberfest. More to come after this week of fun stuff.

The Austrian Stare

Kent, one of the advisors of the program, mentioned a phenomenon which he calls "The Austrian Stare." There are many things people do here that would be deemed socially unacceptable in the US. Staring is one of them. At first I thought it was because I'm an American, and Europeans seem to have a kind of x-ray vision for Americans, but no, mostly older people just like to stare, and it is completely fine to stare back.

Another thing is line etiquette. If you are next in line, you have to be quick, assertive and right behind the person in front of you, or others behind you will not hesitate to jump to the next open window/register. This happened to me in the grocery store the other day. The belt at the register was very short and I didn't see the little plastic dividers. The person behind me walked up and put his items right behind the person at checkout. I was warned of this beforehand.

Speaking of grocery stores, sales tax is quite high. It ranges from 10 percent on most food items to 20-25 percent on most other goods. When one buys a loaf of bread, they're not just paying for the loaf of bread. They're paying for the vast amount of benefits of the person that made the bread, the person that transported the bread, and the person that sold you the bread.

Public transit here is amazing, for the most part. The U-bahn, which is a subway system, runs frequent, fast, and services most of the main city. There are a lot of buses and streetcars as well. It's all quite cheap too.

The tap water is quite tasty. I could bottle it and sell it to Americans. Supposedly that's why their coffee tastes really good and why there is such a large coffee culture in Austria. I have yet to go to a kaffeehaus here, but I'm sure that will happen shortly.

Vienna truly is a beautiful city. The architecture is very old and grand, and the streets are clean, yet still old looking. Despite the cleanliness, I've seen vast amounts of graffiti. In the inner stadt (central district), one can find many street performers, including musicians. I've seen vast amounts of ads for operas around.

Speaking of music, yesterday and today were full of the majority of the music students in the program auditioning for 1. a teacher and 2. admittance to the performance workshop. All auditioning were required to attend, and I must say that I am quite impressed with the fellow music students here. I had a somewhat successful audition, I'd say.

These 3 weeks are full of German classes, meetings, tours and other stuff, but once I have some time to go out and experience more. I'll be sure to discuss more here.

140 Americans on the wall, 140 Americans...

Stick 140 Americans in one hostel that has a bar in the middle of nowhere, Austria for a weekend, which is actually the first weekend in Europe for most of them, and you get fucking chaos. I've never been so fucking annoyed in my life. Most of these people have never drank in a bar, just the parties, frat houses, etc. that they're used to. Don't get me wrong, I have no issue with drinking, I just have issues with a vast amount of belligerently drunk people that have no respect, that are constantly interrupting others and completely disregarding what others have to say. This isn't just happening to me; others feel the same.

There are some exceptions to the aforementioned Americans; some people are really cool and friendly, but basically, I'm annoyed. I'll see what next weekend is like when I'm actually in Vienna and with a smaller american-european ratio.

Oh yeah, and I learned how to do a very basic Viennese waltz step this evening. Gonna go tear it up in the balls now.